Customers who come to eat fried chicken rice at 31 Ly Tu Trong often order an extra skewer of fish cake for 30,000 VND, which is chewy and crunchy and quite appealing - Photo: TO CUONG
Tucked away in a small alley in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, the fried chicken rice restaurant of Mr. Phat and Mrs. Hanh has quietly existed for more than two decades. The exact address is at alley 31 Ly Tu Trong, District 1 - an area known as the "golden land" of the city.
The entrance to the restaurant is hidden behind a narrow alley, just wide enough for two motorbikes to pass each other, seemingly without anyone noticing.
However, once you step in, diners will be immediately attracted by the rich aroma of fried chicken in hot oil, spreading throughout the space, like an irresistible invitation.
The sign for fried chicken rice is quite small and easy to miss. Diners have to go deeper inside to see the restaurant space.
The shop appears simple with a small corner of the yard and a tiny house, no grand signboard, no elaborate decor. Yet customers keep coming in and out, one group after another.
Many foodies in Ho Chi Minh City call this "nameless chicken rice" or "4-hour chicken rice", because the restaurant not only lacks a sign but is also only open from 4:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m.
Although the shop was open for a short time, Mr. Phat and Mrs. Hanh never had any fear of it being unsold, sometimes even running out of business before closing time.
Special chicken rice flavor in the heart of District 1
For Mr. Phat, 70 years old, and Mrs. Hanh, 66 years old, every day is a familiar rhythm: going to the market, preparing ingredients, and standing in the kitchen to serve each plate of hot rice.
Enjoying a plate of fried chicken with rice here, I realized what makes it so special: the crispy chicken skin melts in your mouth, leaving a light, attractive fatty aftertaste, while the meat inside still retains its natural sweetness and softness.
The chicken is soft inside and crispy outside but not greasy at all because the restaurant uses lard instead of cooking oil - Photo: TO CUONG
The rice is fried thoroughly, each grain is shiny, fragrant with chicken fat and has a slightly burnt taste of the pan, quite characteristic. Mr. Long, a regular customer shared on social media: “I have been eating here for 20 years, since the restaurant was in an apartment building. This fried chicken is very addictive, the fried rice is incomparable anywhere. Everyone has different tastes, but for me, this is the pinnacle.”
I can't help but agree - there's something very unique, very "homey" about every spoonful of rice and piece of meat here.
The restaurant's journey began more than 20 years ago, when it was just a street vendor on the sidewalk of an old apartment building near Ly Tu Trong.
At that time, a plate of rice cost only 7,000 VND, cheap enough for anyone to stop by and eat. When the apartment building was demolished, Mr. Phat and his wife moved the restaurant into a small alley, continuing to maintain the business. By 2019, the restaurant officially "anchored" in a house deeper in alley 31.
Prices have increased over time, now a plate of rice costs 50,000 VND - still considered reasonable in the center of District 1, although for some diners, this price is no longer as "popular" as before. However, the quality of the food and the sincere treatment of the owners are still something that no one can criticize.
The "secret formula" is kindness
From the opinions of customers at the restaurant to reviews on social networks, there are both compliments and criticisms about the food, but almost all customers are impressed with the hospitality of the restaurant owner and staff.
Customers come here of all ages: students, office workers, to the elderly looking for old tastes. They come not only to eat, but also to chat with Mr. Phat and Mrs. Hanh - the owners who are always as welcoming as family.
Although spending more than 80,000 VND for a plate of chicken rice is quite expensive, this price is still considered reasonable in a place where a cup of coffee can cost 100,000 VND - Photo: TO CUONG
Ms. Tran, a regular customer, said: “I have been eating here since I was a student. Back then, when I was poor, every time I came, Ms. Hanh would give me extra rice and soup because she knew I was still in school. That cuteness made me fall in love with her, and now I still come here often.”
When I asked Ms. Hanh about the secret to keeping customers for more than two decades, she just smiled: “There is no secret, my child. I am just lucky, people find the food delicious and tell each other. A restaurant in a deep alley like this, who would want to come if they don’t like it. If we treat customers sincerely, like family, they will remember us, but we don’t have any secret formula.”
The chicken has a crispy skin but is extremely soft and juicy inside, and is still steaming when cut open.
In the heart of District 1, where high-rise buildings are built side by side, Mr. Phat and Ms. Hanh's fried chicken rice restaurant is like a meaningful contrasting piece. It is that simplicity - from the small alley, the simple corner of the restaurant, to the sincere treatment - that has helped the restaurant survive for more than 20 years.
This is not only a place to enjoy chicken rice, but also a place to feel humanity, to see that Ho Chi Minh City is not only bustling and chaotic but also has small warm corners, imbued with the generous quality that has become the trademark of the people of this city.
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